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Do you have a question for us? Browse our FAQs for the answers you need. If you can't find the information you require, don't hesitate to contact us directly using the contact details provided below.

  • Where do I send my booster?
    Power Brake Booster Exchange 17820 Highway 99, Unit C Lynnwood, WA 98037
  • How do I pay for my booster?
    Once the rebuild is complete, we will call you to obtain your credit card information and process the payment. You can also make the payment online.
  • How do I know if my booster has arrived?
    For the status of your brake booster, please email
  • Can I plate my booster gold or silver Zinc Plated?
    Yes, plating your brake booster in gold or silver (aka clear) is possible. However, if the booster is a crimped style, the assembly process may leave a few marks as the shells are re-crimped. If the booster has a band around the outside, it will be fine.
  • If my shells are rusty or pitted, can they be finished or plated?
    Yes, the shells can be plated or spray painted black, but the results may not be satisfactory if there is heavy rust or pitting. In such cases, it is best to have the shells painted as it provides better coverage for the flaws. This being said, we feel the need to warn you that there will still be visible pit marks. If there is bodywork needed, we can also send the booster back to you with all paint removed.
  • If my supplied core is bad, what should I do?
    If your supplied core is bad, we will assist you in sourcing the necessary parts. If the parts are unavailable, you may be required to provide a different core.
  • How do I troubleshoot my booster?
    To troubleshoot your booster, follow these steps: The hard pedal: Check the booster vacuum hose. Using the wrong hose can cause issues. Only use a vacuum hose, as using a fuel hose can lead to collapse over time. Refer to our video for more information. The check valve: The internal workings of a check valve can fail over time. Replace the check valve if necessary. Damaged diaphragm: Diaphragms can dry out, crack, or get brake fluid on them, causing leaks. Replace the diaphragm if damaged. Stuck and binding brake pedal: Check the connection between the brake pedal, brackets, and the booster. Over time, pins can wear out, leading to binding. Rust can also affect the movement. The internal bakelite hubs: Over time, the hubs can chip or crack internally, causing vacuum to flow where it shouldn't. This equalizes the vacuum on both sides of a diaphragm, making it difficult to move the pedal. The pedal goes to the floor and does not come up: This often occurs when the car applies the brakes without input. In most cases, it is due to a damaged or cracked inner hub or a faulty valve rod and plunger assembly. Brake Fluid gets into the booster: it can cause soft or a hard Pedal. The pedal seems spongy: Most of the time, a spongy pedal is caused by air trapped in the system. Bleed the system thoroughly, starting from the back to the front brakes. If air persists, check for leaks in the system where fluid may be escaping.

For further assistance, please contact and one of our sales technicians will guide you through additional troubleshooting ideas.

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